I learned CSS same with most of these guys.. Viewing source code and checking how minor changes affects the total layout of the site. It's also best to tweak and play with free XHTML/CSS templates on the net. You'll learn many things. specially the hidden secrets..
I still am trying to learn more.. I've been studying it for almost 3 months now.. and i have some grasp of its basics.. it may take many more months for me to start a template from scratch.. but it's worth it.. and it's pretty challenging...
I've read most tutorials at w3schools.. I also bumped into a 2001 release web design book. It's an old book considering the fast-paced growth of the technology. However, there are good points in the book (navigation, breadcrumb trail, functionality, basic layout, positioning, etc...) that I think are 'standard' of the net.
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